Adam Katz asked:




Dear Mr. Katz:

I recently purchased your book, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!” and have tried very hard to curb my dog Honey’s aggressions, which I have now recognized as both fear and food aggression… after reading your book.

But instead of better, I fear it is getting worse.

We adopted her from the age of 2-3 months, and she was fine in the beginning. Very loving and extremely hyperactive. The hyperactivity continues, and she still jumps up at anyone coming near the house. She seems to fear tall men, especially if they have anything in their hands, like a garden rake or spade, and she backs away from strangers, even small children. She is afraid. She gets aggressive with anyone she senses is afraid of dogs, and she has gone for them, making it worse for them, of course! She becomes aggressive with anyone who passes her by when any food is around, and she will growl and snarl at them, telling them in effect that the food is hers, so hands off!

To crown it all off, she snarled and growled at me today when I went up to stroke her, which she has not done before. I have always tried to correct her, either by the leash, or we have a muzzle which we correct her with, and failing that, I will put her in her crate as a punishment. I am not a novice with a dog. Before Honey, we had the most wonderful shepherd/husky dog, who was similarly abandoned, and I never had one problem with him – he was wonderful. I have taken honey to obedience classes – She does sit and stay, also goes down when she is instructed to.

I feel that I have done everything possible to alleviate her aggression, but it doesn’t seem to work. I have two daughters who both pour love on her too, and quite frankly, I am afraid one day that she will become vicious – Can you please give me some advice, because I do not want to have to have her put down.

I have tried everything you recommend in your book, including spitting in her food, and making her wait to eat last. But I must be doing something wrong! I know mixed breeds aren’t your favorite, but please make an exception in my case. I love dogs, and hate to be beaten. I am also English, and you must know that we are softies when it comes to animals!

I await your reply in haste!

Sincerely,

Diana

Dear Diana,

First, let me point out that I share my home with a mixed breed.

And yes… I like him. A whole lot! His name is Forbes and he is one of the most compatible dogs I’ve ever had the pleasure of sharing my life with.

To be honest, I have a feeling that your dog’s issues are very much a result of poor genetics and weak nerves.

But before jumping to any conclusions, you must first recognize that all of the information you’ve droned on about provides me with NONE of the information I need in order to help you.

So… what do I need? I need to know what happens when you correct the dog? Does she continue to act aggressive? Does she stop immediately? Does she try to bite you? Does she go submissive? And once you get her to pay attention to you, what’s happened once you’ve started to create new/positive associations with the stimulus, as described in the book?

These are all of the questions you need to be asking yourself. As well as:

- Is my timing on the money? Is the dog associating my corrections with the behavior (the aggression).

- Am I being consistent? (Be honest… if the dog isn’t getting a firm correction EVERY TIME she exhibits the behavior, then it’s no wonder that you’re not getting the results you seek.)

- Are my corrections motivational? If the distraction/stimulus is more motivational than your correction, then you’ll never get any results. You’ll know that your correction is motivational when the dog stops looking at the stimulus and starts looking at you.

Please let me know. However, judging on what you’ve described I would not be surprised if this is mostly the results of poor genetics and weak nerves. And in which case, you will never be able to overcome the dog’s genetics, so the dog should either be put to sleep or confined to such a lifestyle that she only comes in contact with you and people that she does not show the aggression towards. But before you make any snap decisions I would recommend consulting with a professional who can evaluate the dog for you. It’s impossible to give an accurate assessment without seeing the mutt. Err… dog.

That’s all for now, folks!

Adam



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peterhutch asked:




 

Peripheral nerves are a collection of nerve fibers that originate from many different kinds of neurons. Motor fibers originate from motor neurons that are located in the spinal cord. Sensory axons originate from neurons that are located outside the spinal cord in large clusters called ganglia. The ganglia that contain the sensory neurons for the leg are located in the low back region (called the lumbar and sacral levels); those for the arm are located in the neck (called the cervical region). Each of these ganglia contains many thousands of sensory neurons.

Peripheral neuropathy affects men and women equally. Older adults (those 55 to 60 or over) are most likely to develop peripheral neuropathy. However, a mononeuropathy such as carpal tunnel syndrome may affect younger adults who use computers extensively, or who work in situations requiring repetitive motions. Some inherited conditions that cause nerve damage can strike during childhood.

The Facts on Neuropathy

Neuropathy, also called peripheral neuropathy, refers to damage to the peripheral nerves - nerves that carry information between the central nervous system (the brain and spinal cord) and the rest of the body. Peripheral neuropathy may be caused by a number of different medical conditions, such as diabetes and cancer. It can interfere with the senses, with movement, or with the function of internal organs. Damage to one nerve is called mononeuropathy, while damage to many nerves all at once is called polyneuropathy.

The Three Types of Neuropathy

Peripheral neuropathy is defined by the type of nerve that is damaged. Sensory neuropathy affects nerves which sense pain, touch, temperature, etc. Motor neuropathy affects the nerves which control voluntary muscle movements, such as the flexing and extending of the arms and legs. Autonomic neuropathy affects involuntary bodily functions such as breathing, digestion, blood pressure, and other organ functions. Peripheral neuropathy can be broken down further into single area disturbance (mononeuropathy) or multi-area disturbances (polyneuropathy.)

The goal of treatment for patients with diabetic neuropathy is to alleviate symptoms and prevent progression of neuropathy. The treatment options for patients with diabetic neuropathy are similar to patients with nondiabetic peripheral neuropathy as discussed above. As is the case for peripheral neuropathy in general, treatment of diabetic neuropathy is primarily focused on controlling and reducing the severity of the symptoms.

To treat peripheral neuropathy, it might be necessary to control the cause. If a person has an illness such as diabetes or MS, the goal is to regulate that illness to minimize the nerve damage. If a nerve is being compressed (carpal tunnel syndrome), a person might need to change his posture or routine in order to relieve the stress placed on those nerves. Occasionally, surgery is performed to correct a case of nerve compression. Vitamin deficiencies can be treated with oral vitamins or a better diet. If a person is having a reaction to a medication, then that med might be discontinued.

Antidepressants. Tricyclic antidepressant medications, such as amitriptyline and nortriptyline (Pamelor), were originally developed to treat depression. However, they have been found to help relieve pain by interfering with chemical processes in your brain and spinal cord that cause you to feel pain. The selective serotonin and norepinephrine reuptake inhibitor duloxetine (Cymbalta) also has proved effective for peripheral neuropathy caused by diabetes.



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